Good question. There are lots of factors involved, but for most interior and exterior projects the following will usually give you an accurate estimate of your needs. Simply calculate the square footage of the surfaces to be painted and divide by the number of square feet that the manufacturer indicates can be covered by a gallon of your selected paint.

As mentioned earlier, there are a number of factors that affect how much paint you’ll need. These include the type of surface being covered and the color currently on the surface as well as the one being applied. The best way to ensure that you have the proper amount of paint for your project is to take your measurements and other information (surface being covered, its condition and color) to your local Sparco Paints Dealer.

Use a coat or two of Berger Cement Primer (ST) or (WT). Thereafter, apply a top coat like Berger Easy, Luxol Silk, Rangoli Easy Clean, Rangoli Fashion Finish, Bison Super Emulsion, Bison Super Acrylic Distemper or Bison Acrylic Distemper.
High Gloss (70+ on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to Use:For kitchen and bathroom walls, kitchen cabinets, banisters and railings, trim, furniture, door jambs and window sills.
Comments:More durable, stain-resistant and easier to wash. However, the higher the gloss, the more likely surface imperfections will be noticed.
Semi-gloss (35 to 70 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to Use:For kitchen and bathroom walls, hallways, children’s rooms, playrooms, doors, woodwork and trim.
Comments:More stain-resistant and easier to clean than flat paints. Better than flat for high-traffic areas
Satin or Silk (Range overlapping eggshell and semi-gloss)
Similar characteristics to semi-gloss and eggshell.
Eggshell (20 to 30 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to Use:Can be used in place of flat paints on wall surfaces especially in halls, bathrooms and playrooms. Can be used in place of semi-gloss paints on trim for a less shiny appearance.
Comments:It resists stains better than flat paint and gives a more lustrous appearance.
Flat (less than 15 on a 60-degree gloss meter)
Where to Use:For general use on walls and ceilings
Comments:Hides surface imperfections. Stain removal can be difficult. Use for uniform, non-reflecting appearance. Best suited for low-traffic areas.
Matte:Same characteristics as flat.

Painting your old vinyl siding makes good sense both economically and aesthetically. Not only can you make it look like new again, you can, if you wish, change the color and give it a whole new look. Note that you can do the same thing with aluminum siding. Surface preparation and the use of a quality paint are the keys to painting both vinyl and aluminum siding. (However, check with the siding manufacturer to make sure that painting does not void the warranty.)

For vinyl, the first step is to remove any chalking and stains as well as any dirt by cleaning with a power washer or by hand-scrubbing with warm, soapy water and thoroughly rinsing. One caution: Never try to remove stubborn stains on vinyl siding with a wire brush, sandpaper or a power sander. These can permanently damage your siding. After the surface is dry, paint using quality paint. Note that you should not paint with a color darker than the original color of the vinyl siding. Why? Because dark colors can absorb the sun’s heat, causing the siding panels to warp.

For aluminum siding, any surface oxidation must be completely removed by careful, light rubbing with steel wool. If mildew is present, remove it by scrubbing with a bleach solution (one part bleach to three parts water). Power-wash or hand-scrub with warm, soapy water and rinse. Be sure to remove all chalking, loose paint, dust, dirt, and bleach solution. Spot-prime areas where bare aluminum may be exposed, after the surface is dry, paint as you would any siding using good quality paint.

For authoritative advice on repainting your vinyl or aluminum siding along with the proper type and quality paint to do the job, check with your local Sparco Paints Dealer.

Paint when the temperature is above 60 and below 90 degrees F. Otherwise the drying time will be adversely affected. Avoid not only rain but also wind. High winds not only can cause your paint to dry too quickly, they can also blow dirt and other debris onto the wet surface. You should also try to paint with the shade. In other words, if you can avoid painting indirect sunlight, do so. Always check the Sparco Paints instructions on the paint can label and get advice from your local Sparco Paints dealer.

Without taking a look at your specific situation, it’s very difficult to give a specific answer. There are simply too many different types of problems that involve paint not adhering to exterior surfaces. For example, there are terms such as alligatoring, blistering, checking and cracking to describe different problems that can occur. However, almost all paint failures are due to poor or improper surface preparation. Another cause is improper application. The use of quality paint also is important, but, as in your case, will not ensure against adhesion problems if the surface is not properly prepared and the paint is not applied correctly.

To briefly answer both your second and third questions, yes, you can correct your problem and by properly doing so avoid the same problem in the future. Remove all loose, flaking or peeling paint, clean, spot prime where necessary, solve any moisture problems you may have and repaint with a quality paint using correct application procedures.

That’s the brief answer. For a complete and authoritative answer to your specific paint problem, see your local Sparco Paints Dealer In many cases they have a publication and/or CD-ROM disk entitled Paint Problem Solver which illustrates many common exterior and interior problems and explains the cause and solution.

That depends. Both will do an excellent job under most circumstances. Water-based paints have a number of advantages especially for of do-it-yourselfers including ease-of-clean-up and general ease-of-use. In addition, top-quality latex paints generally have excellent adhesion to most surfaces and generally exhibit superior resistance to bleaching and fading when compared to oil-based paints. However, to determine which type of paint you should use for your specific project, consult your local Sparco Paints dealer.

Actually, if you are painting new siding or where all of the previous coating has been removed, you should first apply a coat of primer followed by two coats of paint. However, if the surface was previously painted and that old paint is still sound, a single coat of a quality paint will probably suffice. Your local independent Sparco Paints dealer can advise you as to whether two coats will be necessary for your particular situation.

Your home’s exterior is the first impression visitors have of you. You should want it to look good. First, be sure to take into account the fixed colors of your home -brick, stone work and the roof color. You may want to consider choosing a paint color that will pick up the color from one of these non-painted areas such as, for example, a brown that appears in your brick. In addition, the style of your home may play a role in the colors you select. If, for example, you have an architecturally accurate reproduction of a colonial-style home, you may want to use authentic exterior colors from that period.

Or, if you have a Victorian-era home you may want to use a number of colors to accentuate the architectural details (gingerbread) on your home. Generally, you can’t go wrong selecting a light color for the body of the house and a darker, complementary color for the trim. Another way to set your home off is to create an interesting welcoming entrance by painting your front door in a bold color scheme. Your local independent Sparco Paints dealer can help you select just the right color scheme for your exterior project.

Wallboard or smooth plaster – use a short nap 1/8 to 1/4 inch
Light-textured stucco or poured concrete – use a medium nap 3/8 to 3/4 inch
Cyclone fencing/wire fences – use long nap 1″ – 11/2 “

Generally, there are two types of paint brushes, those made of natural-hair bristles and those made with synthetic materials (usually nylon or polyester).

Natural bristle brushes are preferred for use with solvent-based (oil- or alkyd-based) paints, especially for enamel or finish work. Natural bristles are hollow and can absorb the water contained in a latex paint, causing them to swell and become soft and limp (similar to your own hair when it is wet).

Most synthetic brushes work well with both latex and solvent-based paints, but always check the manufacturer’s recommendations on the brush. Some of the solvents used in solvent-based paints can break-down the compensation of a synthetic bristle-once again check the label.

Keep in mind, the same above rules apply to roller covers: synthetic vs. natural (wool).

In terms of time, the most efficient applicators are listed in order:
Sprayer
Roller
brush
In terms of which is most effective in least amount of wasted paint listed in order:
Sprayer
Roller
brush

High quality or more expensive brushes have distinct advantages over the cheaper ones. First of all, a high quality brush will finish the job more quickly. This is because a top-quality brush has the ability to “hold” more paint in reservoir, which means you will spend less time “painting the can” than applying the paint to the surface. Also, a top-quality brush will have a tapered end, which means there are shorter bristles on the outside and longer bristles in the center. Tapered bristles give the painter more control over where and how much paint goes onto the surface.
A top-quality brush will also not shed bristles like a cheaper brush, because of how firmly the bristles are seated in the ferrule (the metal band that attaches the bristles to the handle), and also determined by the material used as plugs (space plugs inside the ferrule that bond the bristles in the ferrule, add taper to the bristles, and finally create “wells” in the center of the bristles to hold paint) in the ferrule.

Nylon & polyester blend paintbrushes work well in both oil and water-base paints.

Generally you need to buy two brushes: a 3″ to 4″ size brush for larger surfaces and a 1″ to 2″ angular brush for smaller surfaces trim work, cutting in (trimming an edge or border with a brush, such as where a wall meets the ceiling or at the edge of woodwork) and touch up.

Run your hand over the cover to see if it sheds any lint. If it doesn’t, it’s probably a good cover.
Check both ends of the cover to see if there is any fabric hanging over either end. Good quality covers are “beveled” and there should be no overhanging fabric.
Look for the seam in the roller cover. If you don’t see one, then its probably a good cover. If you see any gaps in the cover or loose backing at either end, that means the cover is of inferior quality.
Look for the seam in the roller cover. If you don’t see one, then its probably a good cover. If you see any gaps in the cover or loose backing at either end, that means the cover is of inferior quality.

Faster overall painting with less effort
No unsightly brush streaks
Less bristle or filament shedding
cutting in” for those tight areas
Outstanding finish appearance

Clean immediately after use – paint thinner or kerosene with bristle brushes; soap and water with nylon/polyester brushes.
Use a brush comb to clean and straighten the bristles.
Do not soak your brushes for extended periods of time. They will lose their shape if you do
If possible, store your brush by hanging it. Do not store a brush on its tips. This will curl the working tip of the brush rendering if useless.

Levels the paint finish without shadows or valleys
Will not shed lint on the painted surface
Will not skid or track when rolling
Will not delaminate during use